Tips On Riding


Tips On Mounting


Mounting from the ground by yourself.
To mount, use the picture as a guide. The first time you ride, you might use a mounting block to help you. In this picture, the girl is mounting from the ground which some believe can strain a horses back. A mounting block is NOT for babies, a sissy or anything else people might have told you. It simply helps you get on your horse easier and doesn't stress the horses back. I myself prefer a mounting block( I have almost been riding for 5 years). Some one else my offer you a leg up. For a leg up, you stand facing the horse, with you hands on the front and back of the saddle. You should be taught to always mount a horse or pony from the "near" side or the animal's left side. The right side of a horse or pony is considered the "off" side. Lift your right leg for the lifter on grab. Usually the lifter counts 1-2-3 and on three the rider springs straight upwards taking some of the weight on their hands that are resting on the saddle. The important thing is to go straight up rather than going across the saddle. The lifter should have hold of the riders leg about 4" below their knee.


Tips On Aids


Aids are the cues a rider gives to a horse to communicate what they want their horse to do.There are to types of riding Aids: the natural aids and the artificial aids.

Natural aids include:
Leg
Hand
Voice

Artificial aids include:
Spur
Whip

The leg should be the main aid for the horse. It has a lot of control over the horse's hindquarters, and is used to cue the horse to go forward, increase impulsion, step sideways (half pass), and correctly bend. It is the primary "driving aid" 

The hands communicate to the horse through the reins and bit. They have the most control over the horse's head and shoulders, and little control over the animal's hindquarters. Generally, the legs should be more used in giving cues to the horse. Many beginners 'over-use' the hands, yanking and pulling before they begin to learn the more 'sophisticated' methods of using seat and leg to ask the horse to turn or slow down. 

The voice should be used very little under saddle as a cue, although depending on the horse being ridden it may often be an excellent aid in communicating with the horse if it is well utilized. It is sometimes used as a reprimand like 'no!', or more commonly as a way to praise the animal. Certain verbal noises, such as what is called 'clucks', can be used as cues to encourage the horse to move forward. Soothing noises can calm an upset or nervous horse. However, it is important to note that in dressage use of the voice is penalized, and overuse of voice in most types of competition is frowned upon. 

The spur is attached to the rider's boot, and is used to back up the rider's leg aids. Spurs are NOT designed to be used as punishment or to hurt the horse. Use of the spur can range from a brief, light touch, to encourage more impulsion, to a sharp jab on a horse that refuses to go forward. The spur should only be used by experienced riders.

The whip is usually longer and more flexible than a crop and has a lash at its end. The whip is used to back up the rider's leg aids. It may be used as a training tool, using light taps, when teaching the horse to collect their gaits or perform movements such as the piaffe.


Tips On Keeping Safe


It's really easy to get hurt around horses. So far, we have been lucky enough not to get anything worse than bruises - but that might not always stay like that. Here are some tips for staying safe:

- Be calm and quiet. Sudden moves can cause a horse to shy (jump sideways) or kick out.

- The safest way to lead a horse is with a halter and lead rope. Don't put your fingers through the halter straps, rings or the bit. If the horse pulls away, your fingers could be caught. It could injure your hand or them. You could also hand so be dragged.

- Never stand directly behind a horse. If you are grooming its tail, stand to one side and pull the tail gently over.

- When cleaning a horse's hooves or putting on leg bandages, don't squat or kneel. Bend over so that if the horse moves you can get out of the way quickly.

- Never loop Lead rains, longe lines (AKA lunge lines), or reins around your hands or any other body part. If your horse shys, you could be dragged.

- Feed treats from buckets or tubs. Horses can very quickly become greedy and mistake fingers for carrots. I mostly feed with a very flat hand and move it as soon as the horse has ate his/her treat

- Wear sturdy shoes or boots that will protect your feet if your horse or pony steps on them. No sandals or thin shoes!

- When tying use a quick release knot or panic snap so that if your horse gets scared and pulls he can quickly be freed.  Being constrained can make a scared horse panic to the point of hurting himself or you.

- The safest place to stand is beside your horse's shoulder where you can see each other, or about 10 or more feet away.

- When grooming, saddling up, or cleaning your horse's stall, tie your horse up. A loose horse in a barn can cause havoc. And don't leave a tied horse unattended. It also prevents the horse pushing you up against a wall.

- When going through a doorway, make sure the door is wide open so the horse doesn't hit itself on it. This can startle the horse and result in you being trampled or dragged. If the door/gateway is to thin for you and the horse, go though then gently tug the lead rope for him to follow you, but be careful. The horse may follow to fast and knock you over.

- Never, ever walk up behind a horse. If it frights, you could get hurt badly.

- Horses fright, and move quickly, so watch there legs! A kick will most likely end in a bruise. 




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